How To Replace A Washer’s Bearings And Seal (With Video!)

Bearings go bad through normal use over time. In washing machines in particular, they handle a lot of stressful work, easing the friction on the machine, enduring frequent vibration and occasional exposure to water. You’ll probably know when your washer’s bearings or seal go bad. The appliance will make a lot of noise or start leaking from the back when it runs.

You might think all that racket is the end of your appliance, but it doesn’t need to be! While the parts in question are tucked away in the heart of your washer, they’re really not that hard to access and replace. For a fraction of what it’d cost to buy a new washer, you can replace your washing machine’s bearings yourself. In this guide and the companion video, we’ll be walking you through the process. Skip the pricey repair tech call, grab your tools, and let’s get started!

Need a washer bearing and seal kit for your replacement? Search below with your exact washing machine model number to find the part needed:

Signs That A Washer Bearing Or Seal Has Gone Bad

The washing machine’s bearings and seal are found on the back of the appliance’s outer and inner tubs. If you are hearing a grinding sound when the tub is in use, it’s a good sign that one or both of the bearings have failed, and if your washer is leaking from the back, the tub seal might be damaged. If your washer is really banging around, or even vibrating so much that it’s “walking”, there’s a good chance that bad bearings are to blame. Often, when one of these parts needs replacing, it’s a good idea to replace the other two, as well. All bearings and seals will all wear down eventually, and replacing both of them at once will save you from having to disassemble your appliance twice in a short time span.

Finding The Right Replacement Part

Don’t waste time trying to find the right parts at your nearest big box store. Use the search box above or the search feature on AppliancePartsPros.com to get compatible high quality OEM parts for your appliance quickly! It’s as simple as typing in your washer’s model number, which you can find in its manual or on the machine itself. Check behind the washer door, either along the wall of the front panel or on the door itself, for a sticker that lists this information. You may also find the washer’s model number behind the kickplate or front access panel. Genuine OEM washer bearings and seals are usually sold individually, so keep that in mind when you’re shopping for these parts. We recommend replacing the seal and both bearings at the same time, even if all three parts aren’t damaged.

How To Replace A Washer’s Bearings & Seal

The steps laid out in this guide and the companion video were completed on an LG front loading washer. Regardless of the make and model of your appliance, the steps taken to replace these parts are roughly the same. So even if your washer is a different brand or model from the one we’ve worked on, you should find that things still line up. If something isn’t exactly the same, you can refer to your appliance’s manual for more specific instructions.

Tools for the Job

To complete this project, you’ll need a few common tools:

1. New replacement bearings and seal

2. A bucket or other water receptacle

3. Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

4. Pliers

5. Vice grips

6. Snips or wire cutters (for cutting zip ties)

7. Socket wrench (10mm, 17mm, 13mm sockets)

8. Hammer or rubber mallet

9. Punch

10. Rust Buster or another penetrating oil

11. A zip tie

12. Blue thread sealer

13. Work gloves

Replacing A Washer’s Bearings And Seal

To replace these parts, you’ll need to disassemble most of your washer. Don’t worry! It’s not hard at all. While there are a lot of steps, it’s pretty straightforward. And luckily, we’ve got a great instructional video that can walk you through everything in greater detail up above. Don’t forget to give that a watch!

Before you begin, make sure to disconnect your washing machine from power either at the wall outlet or the circuit breaker. You should also turn off the hot and cold water supplies before you start!

How To Disassemble Your Washer

1. Take the top off of the appliance. After you’ve removed the mounting bracket screws, grip the top of the washer and pull it back about an inch and a half. This will clear it from its interior stoppers. Then, lift the lid to remove it.

2. Remove the detergent drawer and the screws behind it. Open the drawer and press down on the center tab in the back to release and remove it. This will give you access to the screws.

3. Disconnect the wire harnesses at the front of the washer. Press the release tab on each to pull them apart.

4. Remove the front control panel. Start by releasing the locking tabs along the top of the washer. Lift the panel up slightly before pulling it away, and mind those wires!

5. Open the washer door and remove the clamp holding the door gasket in place. Lift the gasket slightly to find the clamp’s spring. Use a flathead screwdriver to carefully lift the spring out of the groove, then work your hand around the clamp to remove it.

6. Once the clamp is out, push the gasket in to get it out of the way of the front panel. This will give you access to the door switch, which you should now disconnect. Press the release tab on the wire harness to separate it.

7. Use the drain hose to empty any water in the washer into a bucket or other receptacle. You can find the drain hose behind a small access panel, usually on the front of your washer. While it’s not a surefire way to avoid every mess, making sure the water hose is drained before proceeding can save you from bigger spills.

8. Remove the front panel.
   1. You’ll need to remove the access panel’s trim first. Then the screw behind it holding the front panel on.

   2. Next, remove the four screws at the top of the front panel. Make sure you brace the panel as you take that last screw out so that the front panel doesn’t fall.

   3. Lift the front panel off the washer and set it aside.

9. Remove the gasket. First, carefully pry any hoses off the gasket, then remove the interior clamp in the same way you removed the first clamp.

10. Remove both tub weights, starting with the upper weight. These are the large pieces attached to the top and bottom of the tub. You can remove the bolts holding them in place with a 10mm socket wrench.

11. Remove the hoses at the top of the tub. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen any clamps holding the hoses in place.

12. At the bottom of the tub, disconnect the thermistor and remove the wires from the heater and the grounding strap. These wires may all be bundled together with a zip tie, which you will need to cut. The wires themselves can be disconnected by hand, and the grounding strap can be disconnected with a socket wrench.

13. Remove the rear access panel. It is held in place with a few Phillips head screws.

14. Remove the hoses, pressure chamber mounting, and rotor assembly wires from the washer tub. Keep your Phillips screwdriver handy – you’ll need it to loosen clamps and remove mounting hardware.

15. Remove the 17mm bolt holding the rotor assembly to the back of the tub and pull the assembly off. You may need to stabilize the assembly with your hand, and have someone else stabilize the inside of the washer drum, if you are having difficulty getting the bolt to turn.

16. Remove all the bolts holding the stator assembly in and remove that, as well. Don’t forget to disconnect the wire harnesses attached to the assembly.

17. Disengage the shock absorbers. There are two shocks on the front and one on the back.
    1. Start by removing the locking pins – you’ll need a 13mm socket or 12mm wrench for this, and will likely need to use a pair of pliers to pull the pins all the way out.

    2. You may need to lift the tub slightly to get each shock folded down and out of the way.

18. Take the tub off the springs. Lower the tub carefully when you do!

19. Remove the tub. Be careful – it’s heavy. Once it’s out of the washer body, set it up on blocks with the opening facing up. Make sure it’s sturdy, you’ll be working on it from this angle.

20. Remove all the 10mm bolts around the sides of the tub and separate the sides of the tub.

You’ve successfully disassembled your washer! Now it’s time to get those parts replaced. 

Replacing A Dryer’s Bearings & Seal

1. With your washer disassembled, your next step is to lift the inner tub out and set it aside. If you’re getting a lot of resistance, the bearing may be stuck. If you’re having trouble, we show you how to dislodge it in our video walkthrough. Now would be a good time to check the inner components for damage or grime, as well. Check the seals and interior of the outer tub and the shaft on the inner tub for signs of damage or deterioration. You’ll want to replace any damaged components now, and clean up parts like the inner tub shaft if they’re particularly rusty or grimy.

2. Pry the old seal off the inside of the outer tub with a flathead screwdriver, and then clear any debris away from the bearings.

3. Apply Rust Buster or another penetrating oil around the inner edge of both the interior and exterior bearings. Give the oil a minute or two to soak in.

4. Remove both bearings by pounding them out with a hammer and punch. Once they’re out, be sure to clean up any excess oil with a cloth, and then scrub out the bearing area with a nylon or brass – not steel – brush.

5. Spread a very thin layer of liquid soap around the outer rim of each bearing. This will make it easier to slide them into place.

6. With the tub flipped so that the outside is facing up, set the exterior bearing into place and gently hammer it in until it is flush with the tub surface. Be especially careful if you are using a metal hammer, tapping the outer edges of the bearing lightly.

7. Flip the tub to get at the inside and repeat the process with the second bearing. You will need to use a punch or piece of wood to get the bearing pushed all the way into place.

8. Put a thin layer of laundry soap around the outside of the seal, and then push it into place on the inside of the tub.

At this point, your new parts are installed and all that’s left is to reassemble everything. Mostly, you’re just repeating all those disassembly steps in reverse. We’ll cover that briefly in the next section. For more detailed instructions, check out our companion video.

Reassembling Your Washer After Replacing Washer Bearings and Seal

1. Start by reseating the inner tub. Make sure you’re lining the shaft up properly, and lower it slowly.

2. Reassemble the outer tub, making sure the heating element is seated properly in its bracket before you reinstall the bolts.

3. Place the tub back into the body of the washer. Reattach the springs, and then once it’s hanging properly, reinstall the shock absorbers. Remember, the tub is heavy! Get some help if you need it for this part.

4. Reconnect the hoses at the top and rear of the tub.

5. Reconnect all the wires at the bottom of the tub, making sure the grounding wire is mounted properly. Zip Tie the wires together once they’re all connected.

6. Reconnect and mount the stator. Screw just one of the mounting bolts into place to hold the stator to the tub while you reconnect the grounding wire and wire harness brackets. Once the wires are all in place, you can install the rest of the bolts.

7. Put the rotor back on and apply blue thread sealer to the rotor’s bolt before installing it. Just like when you removed this part, you may need someone to steady the tub from the other side of the washer while you reinstall the bolt.

8. Reinstall the back panel. Make sure you line up the tabs before screwing it back into place.

9. Put the weights back on the tub. Push them into place before putting the screws back in. You can step on the front of the tub to lower it and more easily place the upper weight.

10. Reinstall the gasket. Make sure the pointed indicator is on the inside and at 12 o’clock. Once the gasket is tucked in, reinstall the rear clamp. Use vice grips to pull the spring into place, and then reinstall any hoses that were connected to the gasket.

11. Put the front panel back on. Line the panel up with the tabs at the bottom of the washer before pushing it back into place, making sure the drain hose is threaded through properly and isn’t pinched on anything before screwing it into place.

12. Put the access panel trim back into place, making sure the hose is in place, and then replace the access panel cover.

13. Hook the door switch back up and then pull the door gasket back out to the front panel. Make sure the gasket is pressed into the groove. Once the gasket is in place, reinstall the outer spring clamp with the spring at 6 o’clock.

14. Put the washer control panel back on and then reconnect all wire harnesses. Everything will snap into place, but don’t forget to reinstall the screws, too! Once it’s installed, you can slide the detergent tray back into place, too.

15. Set the top back on and then push it forward to lock it into place. Once it’s set, reinstall the mounting screws.

Wrapping Up

That’s it! You’ve replaced your washer’s bearings and seal. The final step is to plug everything back in and do a test run of your washer without any laundry. Watch for leaks and listen for unusual noises so you’re sure the new parts were installed successfully. The next time you need parts or assistance with home appliance repair, keep us in mind. At AppliancePartsPros.com, our friendly staff is happy to help you fix your appliance yourself. Check out our website for more tips, tutorials, and genuine OEM replacement parts!