Ge WD21X24900C Dishwasher Main Control Board OEM Part

Two weeks ago, my dishwasher would not run. It would beep three times when you pushed the start button: the same signal it gives when the door is open. I used the troubleshooting steps I found at applianceblog.com to do a hard reset. (Hold START and WASH TEMP for five seconds, close the door, and wait 3 minutes) After that, it worked for about one week. When it started having the same issue again, the hard reset did not work. I lowered the control board and could see that there were no lights. Nothing I did made anything light up on the board. So I ordered a new board and replaced it. Dishwasher has been working great for a week now. Replacement was pretty easy. My model has the main electrical junction box directly under the control board. That makes it hard to manipulate the board during the exchange. Other than that, everything was pretty easy. Be sure to take a couple pictures as you are removing things because there is no extra room. Everything has to go back exactly as it was in the very tight space. You need a small precision screwdriver to help unclip some of the electrical connections on the board.

No trouble finding others with my problem. Start light blinks when pressed but doesn’t start, three quick beeps every 20 seconds or so, continuing. I tried loosening the mounting screws to the counter as recommended. It did not look as if there was significant strain, but it worked, for a while. About 2 months later the same problem returned. I replaced the door latch switch, easy, cheaper but it did not solve the problem. Back to Google where the next recommendation was main control board or UI board. I was leaning toward the UI board because it’s where the problem was manifested, possibly affected when I loosen the mounting screws and it was cheaper. But another writer, with the same problem, started with the main control board, and it worked. Then I watched videos of changing each part. No question, the main control board is much easier, so I bought it. Changing went as described in the video, except removing the tray was really tight and even tougher going back in. The video shows the dishwasher sitting at floor level while mine sits about 5/16” lower because the kitchen tile does not extend into the recess. Pulling it out a few inches and raising it to sit on the tile made it much easier. The video mentions ‘with the wires aligned in the slots’ but does not make a big deal. Since that is done blind, it’s not easy to see. You’ll notice when the tray won’t push in enough to line up with the mounting holes. And it worked!

Replaced board with a new one.

At first replaced the door switch thinking that it sensed door was not closed to start load, but that was not it. Then purchased main circuit board, followed the video on how to replace, and it solved the problem. The repair was straightforward and could have taken much less time than it did - my main problem was that I could not get it fitted back in place underneath. The video shows the repairman simply pushing it back up and into place, but 2 of the wire bundles must be moved correctly into the slots on the metal cover to allow it to be pushed up in place to align with the screw holes. If you don't get the wire bundles into the slots on the metal cover the wire bundles get in the way and prevent it from being pushed up into place. To be fair, that was quickly mentioned in the video, but not emphasized. It should be emphasized since once the 2 wire bundles are in the metal slots it allows the board and metal case to push up fairly easily.

I sent a message asking for help at justanswer.com and they told me to see if I had power at the fill switch which I didn’t so they said that the control unit was bad so I ordered the part from here and relaxed it and it works fine now.