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Customer Questions and Answers for Pba Main;09 Aw Tim-Pj by Samsung

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Samsung
Part Number: OEM13374966
Manufacturer Part Number: DA41-00620B

Questions & Answers

For Samsung Pba Main;09 Aw Tim-Pj (Part Number: OEM13374966)

1 Answer

Douglas, It would be recommended to check to see what the frost pattern on the evaporator in the freezer is. If there is very little frost, but the compressor is running, then this will be a sealed system issue in which you will need to have service.

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Joe for Model Number RFG298AARS/XAA

Fridge and Freezer compartments not getting cold. No error codes on display. Inverter board LED solid red. Compressor starts and display indicates (after about an hour) the unit has reached it's set points (-2 and 38 degrees) but the compartments are not cold. I opened up the back of the refrigerator compartment and the evaporator coil is not cold (room temp). The air coming out of the fan is only 58 degrees. All the sensors ohm out ok and the signals are present. Fans are running with the following signals: Ice room fan=8.45V; F Fan=9.9V; R Fan=8.12V; C Fan=10.68V. The compressor gets hot to the touch after about an hour. On the INVERTER BOARD (4 pin connector on the top right) I read: Pin 1-(CN76-1)=5V; Pin 2-(CN76-1)=0.0V; Pin 3-(CN76-1)=2.0V. On the MAIN BOARD (CN75 connector) I read: Pin 1-(CN76-1)=4V; Pin 2-(CN76-1)=5V; Pin 3-Pin 4=0.0V

1 Answer

Hello Joe, with the compressor and fans running and little to no cooling , unless the evaporator coil is heavily frosted preventing airflow, what you are describing sounds like a sealed system problem.

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Pat for Model Number RFG298AARS

Hi I'm having a problem with my refrigerator it was shutting off and not starting up I diagnosed it as being the inverter now it starts and runs my only issue is the temperatures on the top of the refrigerator get a variance between 38 and 45 to 50 freezer is perfect fan seems to be working my question is on wire on inverter board pin number for compressor signal orange wire it says you're supposed to have 2.5 at least you're supposed to check that when the compressor is running its 2.5 but when it shuts off its at 4 volts I can't find any info if this is bad or not when it turns on that wire goes back to 2.5 I have owned out all temperature sensors which all our show to be good when compressor is forced on Max cool it gets very cool very quick on the refrigerator it is set to 38 degrees I never see a change at all even when it's 40 at the top of the refrigerator or 50 still says 38 on the reading on the compressor no codes no blinking lights I am trying to find out how to get the fan to keep working with the doors open I push the light button and it does not keep running and if you open the right door the light comes on so there must be some kind of switch I've tried a magnet and cannot find the place to put it I was thinking the fan at times may stop and that's when the temperatures go up but there is an increase in temperature to about 50 during the day at different times then it will go back down to about just strange at the door temperature never really changes I do see it every once in awhile go to 39 then the compressor kicks on this will all happen within one day and there is no ice build-up anywhere on freezer or refrigerator due to this is a freezer I got from a friend that would not run any help would be grateful or direction to point me to check wondering if maybe the heater circuit is hanging on and that's why the compressor is getting that 4 volt signal and shutting down they only say to check for a 2.5 volt signal if you have that in the compressor is not on there's a failure I did have that and I replaced the one board small one and again no codes and no blinking lights on the back after board was replaced did have one blank before

1 Answer

Pat, The 4 volts on the inverter will be fine and with the compressor running this will also be true. You will want to check for a defrost issue to make sure that evaporator coils are not getting impacted with ice.

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1 Answer

Rich, You will want to check at the main board to see if there is power coming from the board to the motors. If there is no power then the issue will be the main control board.

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1 Answer

Patrick, This issue sounds like the unit is sticking in the defrost cycle and would need to get a main board to correct the issue.

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1 Answer

Tim, It is a good likely hood that the main PCB board is faulty with just the inner lights and the dispenser control operating. Most likely the unit went into a defrost and did not come out of defrost. Try to disconnect power for 5 minutes then plug back up and see if either the unit turns on or an error code pops up.

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1 Answer

Deryl, You will want to check the coils in the freezer compartment to see if the coils are impacted with ice. If they are impacted then test the defrost sensor to make sure that it is good for resistance. The resistance should be 5K ohms at room temp of 77 degrees. If the sensor checks ok then test the heater for continuity. If there is no continuity then the heater is faulty. If both checks ok then the main control board would be the issue.

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1 Answer

Buck, You will want to check the evaporator coils in the freezer to see if the coils have a even frost patter. If they do not then this would most likely be a sealed system issue and will need to have service to check.

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