Whirlpool W10549845 Cleaner OEM Part

I followed Matt's awesome video from AppliancePartsPros.com to build up my "I can do this" reserves. But here's the story leading up to that point... We purchased our Samsung WF419 on a “Black Friday” special November 2009 expecting to get some good years out of the washer/dryer pair. We don’t run more than 2 or 3 loads a week in the washer, so ours has had relatively little use over the beginning of its anticipated and expected long life-cycle. When the “thumping” started on the spin cycle a few months back, I just blew it off as an occasional out of balance load that wasn’t a big deal. Then the thumping became “very” noticeable and my wife said there was water leaking underneath. Well, nothing like a “leaking” and “thumping” washer to get your attention, so I thought I’d better look into the problem. After just a quick internet search, I found that these units have a “fatal flaw” that happens with a large number of them, even if you use them exactly as directed. We’ve never used anything other than the recommended “high efficiency” detergent and kept loads at a normal to light size, so what we found after taking the unit apart was quite shocking. The “spider” or drum shaft assembly had deteriorated into a metal mush and one of the 3 arms was completely cracked through. Also, the “thumping” we were hearing was the inner wash drum rubbing against the front half of the washers plastic housing and had sliced though the housing in 2 areas creating the leak we were experiencing. Wow, I really couldn’t believe a lightly used Samsung washing machine that was only 6 years old, could self-destruct like this. We had sold our “flawless” Maytag stackable after 15 years of continuous service (no issues ever) to “upgrade” to this Samsung set. Well, it goes without saying that I’m not real happy with this purchase now, and am only happy that I’m savvy enough to do this repair myself, with the help of the fabulous Appliancepartspros.com guys. Their website, videos, and of course staff have made diagnosis, disassembly, parts acquisition, and repair a much more comfortable experience. If you have this model and it starts to consistently spin out of balance, plan on a complete tear down of your washer or a VERY LARGE repair bill if you have a service company do the job.

This is a well-documented problem. I ordered all the parts suggested by others - customer service assisted me along the way, taking plenty of time to be sure I got the right stuff. The main problem was the failed tub seal which had caused the bearing in the shaft assembly to fail. The videos for completing this repair are really good - you need to watch each one to not miss anything. As others have stated, the worst part is removing the hub nut. In my case the ($60.00) spanner tool probably would not have worked. I tried a short handled pipe wrench and a hammer but it didn't budge. so I simply drilled a hole on each side of the nut, keeping the bit close to the stem of the shaft assembly, then used a short chisel and hammer to split the nut and pop it out. In the later step to remove the tub bearing (really a bushing) I improvised a bearing puller using a 1 3/8in washer, a 3 1/2in bolt and nut through a piece of metal L-channel so no damage was created and old part was pulled cleanly. In putting everything back together, I found I could successfully tighten the new hub nut using a basin wrench (really inexpensive tool) and a hammer. After buttoning everything up, I ran a short water only cycle. There was a very loud screeching noise for a few seconds as the tub rotation began, but it went away and the cycle continued. Later, I ran a light wash and experienced a 2 or 3 second noise again. Subsequent wash cycles, no noise, all good. Customer service had not heard of this, and had no input but suggested I watch it, and let them know if it recurs. I am happy with my interaction with Appliance Parts Pros; not my first experience with them.

I used the instructions from some of your previous customers. When I was ready to pull the inner tub from the outer tub, it pulled very hard. The front bearing had been HOT and really marked the shaft. The SEAL appeared to be almost plastic, not much left. I removed the seal from the Front bearing. This model had the original type seal with the plastic spacer behind the seal and in front of the front bearing.. BE SURE TO NOTE HOW THE PLASTIC SPACER CAME OUT--feet on spacer toward the face of the Front bearing. The seal went and also took the FRONT bearing with it. Next, I removed the rear bearing. You will need heavy duty SNAP RING pliers for the 2 3/4 inch snap ring at the rear of the back bearing. I was able to pull the rear bearing with a slide hammer puller. NOTE- the bearing was seated just at the edge of the SNAP RING groove. I was not lucky on the front bearing-it was taken out by grinding out the inner race and them grinding out the outer race. NOTE- the depth of the front bearing in the housing, just at the outer edge of the alum. housing. In the housing for the front and rear bearings, you will find a metal spacer. THE SPACER HAS A FLAT END ON ONE END AND A TAPERED END ON THE OPPOSITE END--Tapered end goes toward the REAR bearing-because that bearing is smaller. Clean the bearing housings well with emery cloth-so the bearing will go in a little easier than they came out. I also put NEVER -SEEZ on the housing and the outer edge of each bearing ( two unlike materials). Clean everything real well and follow the instructions for the seal. Bearing numbers-Front--WP22002934 and rear WP22003441

I ordered a new soap dispenser and began a new venture in repairing my dishwasher. I turned off the breaker that suppled power to the unit. I removed all the T-15 torx screws from the inside cover except one, which my wife helped me hold in. This prevents the cover from dropping off. Then, after removing those two, we closed the dishwasher cover, and lifted off the outside cover. That being off, I saw the two wires connecting the dishwasher dispenser solinoid. Removed them. Notice, that one of the wires has a black (or other color stripe). I was careful to replace that to the same spade of the new solinoid. Then, there is a metal bracket with screws. Remove them. To remove the soap dispenser, GENTLY, lift up on the plastic holding clip, and the dispenser will push to the inside. Remove, and clean off all around where the new dispenser will nest. Before you push in the new dispenser, check to see that the rubber gasket is seated in the dispenser all the way around the dispenser. This is very important, as I found, after installing mine, that the dispenser gasket was curled up a bit on one corner. I installed mine, and the dishwasher leaked. I had to take it off, and found this to be the problem. So, save yourself time, and trouble and give it a good inspection before pushing it into the inside panel. Now, just install the bracket screws, and tighten them down snug. remember you are tightning down to plastic, so don't go crazy. Replace the black plastic cover over the dispenser in the same position it came off. This protects the dispenser solinoid. Replace the outside cover on the unit, and put in two screws to hold the cover on while you replace the remaining screws. Don't forget to tell your wife or husband how special they are. This project really was no problem, and I enjoyed doing it. ANYONE CAN DO THIS. THANKS to the folks at Appliance Parts Pro parts for their great product and also their guidance. Their staff is wonderful.......... Ethan gave me great personal guidance. Also, check out their videos to see how to do these and other repairs.

If your LG Front load washers sounds like a freight train, STOP USING IT. You're doing more damage and will need more parts to fix it. After the noise became unbearable, I began to explore and disassemble. I knew enough to know the bearings must be bad but had never done this repair before. ( I am however pretty mechanically inclined.) Watch this video before you start tearing your LG apart. APP did a great job explaining the steps of the repair. Do a search on this site or youtube.com with the main bearing part number: 4280fr4048. It will make the repair much easier, trust me. The repair requires that you completely remove the tub. Don't be intimidated, it's not that hard if you watch the video, just a lot of steps. Once you have the tub out and the rear tub assembly with the bad bearings unbolted from the front half, and have tapped out the tub spider / shaft. This is where things can get rough. Most likely your bearings are trashed, (that was what was making all the noise) and rusted in place. DON'T RUSH THIS STEP. Pounding out the old bearings or remaining outer ring from the bearing chases in the rear tub assembly might be tough. First, remove the pieces that are falling off or broken out and clean up the area so you can see what you are doing. Drench both bearings with some kind of penetrating oil like lock-ease or WD-40 so it will free up the bearings from the chase they are seated into, and go relax for while, (I waited until the next day and it payed off big-time). Get the right tools: I used a 1" deep well socket with a square edge so I could get a good grab on the left over outer ring of the bearing, and a 6" extension. Understand the bearings are made of hardened steel and your socket is not so as you tap and pound out the bearings, keep an eye on the damage you may be doing to the socket. You may be working through the inner hole in the old bearings opposite the bearing your are pounding out, and won't be able to see well what you are tapping or pounding on when you remove the first bearing. So be careful to use a solid flat head punch or socket like I did to avoid scoring the walls of the bearing chase. And switch positions a lot, few pops with your hammer and move to the opposite side 12-6, 9-3 on the clock and so on, over and over until you drive it out. Now, flip the tub assembly over and tap / pound out the other bearing the same way. Warning! Don't use the the wrong tools when pounding out the bearings. Don't use a screw driver! If you don't have a good flat head punch or some sockets you don't mind possibly sacrificing, go buy a good steel flat head punch. If you find you are wearing out your arm pounding, add more penetrating oil and take another break. DO NOT damage the bearing chases pounding out the opposite side bearing by resting your punch or extension against the edges of the opposite chases, (polished male recessed ring the bearings slide into) or you'll end up having to also buy a rear tub assembly at about $125.00. The chases are manufactured into the rear tub assembly. So be careful! Once you get the bearings out and the chases on both sides and the chases cleaned up. Inspect the chases closely. If you nicked then or crushed the edges in any way that causes the otherwise perfect circle to push in and potentially put undo pressure on the new bearing, you'll need to grind or file it down so the new bearing will fit into the chase properly, and not apply pressure to one spot of the bearing after you get it fully seated into the chase. If you made it this far, the hard part is over. Congrats! The next ussue you may run into is seating the drum back into the rear tub assembly. If you had to replace the spider which is also the tub shaft also like I did because a waited too long and trashed it too, in my case it did not easily slip completely into place, through the inner holes of the bearings. In an effort to try and seat the shaft to how far it extended originally, I placed a folder towel on the center of the back/bottom of the tub, and used a 1 1/2 foot 4x4 block of wood and carefully gave it a few hard pops with a hammer. It seated a little further but not fully so I stopped to avoid damaging the tub. I had another option to pull it on into place later during assembly. During re-assembly, when you put the motor cover back on and screw the large hex head bolt into the end of the shaft, if the shaft is not fully seated through the bearings and flush with the surface of the female motor housing, use the bolt to pull it on into place by repeatedly tightening the bolt by hand and pounding your ratchet handle 1/4 to 1/2 a full turn. Then back it out completely and inspect to verify you are pulling it closer to flush and not damaging to the motor housing. Repeat this process a little at a time until the shaft end is flush with the motor housing. This will completely seat the shaft, and the main seal on the inside will do it's job in sealing the bearings from tub moisture and possible leaks. From hear it should be smooth sailing. Follow the video instructions for reassembly. Once your done, congratulate yourself and know that you just saved yourself about $400 in labor and service call charges!