Whirlpool 8009 Appliance Light Bulb OEM Part

I have a Jennair jjw9630cas double wall oven, and after a few years I noticed that the light would not go out, first in the bottom oven, and then in the top oven. After doing some research I discovered this was not uncommon, and the fix usually involved replacing the hinges and/or the hinge receptacles. It didn't look like a difficult fix so I ordered four new hinges and four new receptacles, which arrived quickly. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to replace the hinges and it looked very easy, so I decided to do those first and see if that fixed the problem or not. Replacing the hinges was very easy - just remove the doors, remove a few a screws, swap the hinges then reassemble. Unfortunately after I did this the doors did not fully close and the oven lights would still not go out, so I decided I needed to replace the receptacles as well. This was slightly more difficult as I had to turn off power to the oven at the breaker, then remove some of the trim and pull the oven unit out from the wall about 8-10 inches. Again this only involved removing about 8-10 screws. From there it was a matter of removing a side trim piece with about 5 screws from each side, and then removing the old receptacle which was fastened with a few more screws. Everything went back together in reverse easily. Replacing the receptacles did the trick as everything worked fine when reassembled and the power was turned back on. Be sure to turn the power off before trying to replace the receptacles, and I suggest wearing some light work gloves when handling metal parts as there are some sharp or rough edges that could cut if you are not careful. I was able to complete the job by myself in about an hour. The only tricky part was pulling the oven unit out from the wall - I had to get a sturdy wooden step stool to prop the front of the oven on so that it would not tip and fall to the floor.

By reading stories of other customers who had bought this part, the first thing I looked for when troubleshooting my near-18 year old Frigidaire was for the top to be erupted or raised up on the bimetal defrost. It was truly a case of “look for the simple explanation first.” Once I determined that the bimetal defrost appeared to be the culprit, I ordered the part from Appliance Parts Pros. The back panel (evaporator cover) on my freezer was totally encrusted with ice. So I'm waiting for this to thaw, so I could remove the panel without tearing anything up was the most difficult part of the repair. (If you have this same problem, be patient and don't be tempted to chip at the ice. Let it thaw naturally, then check the drip pan at the bottom of your unit once it thaws. Ours overflowed due to the ice melting, and there was also water on the floor of the fridge.) Once I had the part in hand, the repair couldn't have been easier. As per the demonstration in the video, I snipped the old part out, spliced in the new one, twisted wire nuts over the splices, secured the splices with electrical tape, then put everything back together. The entire process from opening the bag to pushing the unit back into place couldn't have taken more than around 25 minutes. I panicked at first, thinking I had wasted my money because the unit began to run continuously again for several hours, which was one of the original symptoms. Turns out it was just stabilizing and getting things down to the correct temp and, much to my delight, the unit began cycling normally later that afternoon. The next day, my wife disassembled all the drawers and shelves and gave everything a thorough cleaning. I replaced a bulb that was out inside the fridge, put a regular room thermometer in the fridge and checked it once per hour to make sure it was cooling properly. My fridge now looks and runs like brand new and I couldn't be happier.

Troubleshot the oven by checking the broiler which worked good (same fuel valve). After reading the some tips about troubleshooting the Glow Ignitor I could see the broiler ignitor got white hot and the oven ignitor only got bright orange (orange to red causes intermittent ignition or mini explosions). Watched the how to video and it was good information. You should be observant about which openings in the back of the oven as to where the two wires are coming out of. My oven is over 12 years old and I had to use a Dremal to cut the heads off the four screws retaining the flame spreader (piece of metal over the burner). The screws I ordered from the Illustrate Parts Breakdown were not the correct thread type so I had to go buy four more from HD. Replacing the Glow Ignitor was an easy task after watching the DIY video. Replacing the lightbulb is an ongoing issue. I need to troubleshoot that a little more. Changed out the bulb (no help). I think the socket has been heat damaged because my renters removed the light lens and broke the bulb off down to the socket which I had to remove with needle nose pliers (disconnect the electrical first). But the oven works great! I've always receive great reliable support from ApplicancePartsPro. On this particular oven I've changed out; the wiring harness going to the stove top burner valves, oven door glass, stove top burner valves, plastic end pieces and now the oven glow ignitor. I recommend and I let others know about this website. Semper Fi

I ordered 2 bake elements and bulbs and was able to easily fix 1 of the ovens. The serviceman who repaired the left oven did not repair it correctly so, one of the wires was not accessible so, I could only fix one oven. After shutting off the power, I EASILY fixed the right oven - with a LOT of care and a little elbow grease - in disconnecting the broken element, by doing exactly as it said to in the video, making certain not to allow the wires to slip back into the hole that it was pulled from. Since the power was off, I took a fork and slid the wire and it's little connector between the tines of the fork to prevent them from sliding back into the hole, until I could reconnect it to the new bake element. EASY-PEASY. The hardest part was making sure I did not break the fragile connectors, because one of them bent when I was disconnecting and reconnecting them - they were very tight. JUST as the DYI users said - it took about 15 minutes - maybe an extra minute or two because the connectors were hard to get off and back on and I didn't want to break them. To think I was going to pay an appliance repair company $80 just for a service call to assess the problem ($80 would be put toward cost of entire job if I hired them), as well as the cost of the part - which I know would be inflated - as well as the labor, which reviewers said was too costly or "pricey" for the labor involved. I would have paid HUNDREDS of dollars, instead of less than $100, which is what I paid for the parts. I was very afraid of doing this so, had my husband (he's not handy) stand-by and hold the flashlight. :) I said a prayer before, during, and after the repair because I was very nervous, and then GRATEFUL, that I was able to fix the oven myself, without damaging anything. I was SO HAPPY when the element turned red and the oven started to heat! I am a 57 year-old woman who makes most of our home repairs. My husband asked apprehensively, "Are you sure you can do this? How do you know how to do this?" I said, because I learned how to do it on the ApplianceParts website - I watched their video several times. This site is by far one of the best DYI sites, especially considering that you really can do the repair yourself - you just have to be confident and you can't be afraid to try. I told my family and friends all about my repair and this website! Thanks so very much!!

After watching the repair video for our Whirlpool dryer, I removed the back of the dryer, thoroughly wiped and vacuumed all dust from the back of the dryer, and replaced the dryer thermal fuse. The new thermal fuse brought the dryer back to life, although the dryer has stopped twice on its own, restarting when I pushed the "start" button each time. Taking the back off was so easy, I may remove the dryer back again to see if there is any chance that there is a wire or some other component that is intermittently keeping the dryer from functioning at a 100% level. I need to learn how to use a multi meter to test each component, as I relied on the diagnostic 5 recommendations when ordering the dryer thermal fuse replacement part. The assistant from AppliancePartsPros.com explained that there is typically a "reason" that the thermal fuse fails. Although I regularly check the dryer vent inside and at the outside vent, it appears that a heavy rain may have interfered with the lint being blown away from the vent outside. I suspect this created a higher temperature inside the dryer, which lead to the failed thermal fuse. In any regards, AppliancePartsPros.com is my "go-to" whenever one of our appliances has an issue. With their help and repair videos, we have kept our refrigerator freezer working, have installed a new water pump in the dishwasher, have replaced the pump in the washing machine, have cleaned out the washing machine drum, and have replaced the thermal fuse in our dryer. As we live in a rural area, 90 minutes from most repair centers and repair personnel, fixing our appliances ourselves and maintaining them fall on us. I'm a 69-year old retired female teacher who appreciates Appliance Parts Pros!