Whirlpool WP91939 Washer Transmission Shaft Seal OEM Part

First, DO NOT call Sears for parts, their call center knows nothing about the product. App-Pros are the best for help and the right parts. I figured to repair, replace all seals and any item that shows need to and all items that have to do with the spin that may be bad. Repair videos great help. I will start from the "bottom" up, the repairs were not done in this order, just a list of what I did and notes. Replaced-- motor drive coupling, (checked out transmission ok), thrust washer, clutch ass'y, (brake ok), thrust washer, transmission shaft sleeve bearings (inside the spin tube), grease seals, and topwater seal. Replaced sleeve bearings, grease seals, topwater seal for spin tube in (sorry, name?) (main tube housing?). Replaced tub seal (it was real bad), drive block (was bad) agitator washer, agitator dogs (were broken), dog retainer washer. In hindsight, I don't think it was needed to replace the bearings, but beings I bought them went ahead and did it. That was the hard part and I used some "weird" solutions. After trying to remove transmission shaft bearings with a puller, etc, I removed the old grease seals and pounded the old bearings deeper into the tube, there is plenty of room, and they pounded the new bearings in. So now in effect, there are four bearings installed. For the spin tube bearings, I could not find the part number and/or info on the upper bearing. The lower bottom bearing is brass with a lip on it (grove cut in the lip is for the retainer ring for the brake). I bought two of them, cut the lip off one, and pounded it in from the bottom up to close to the old one in the top of the tube. So now there are two upper bearings. Then I put in the lower one with the lip. Be careful with this one, brass is easy to damage. Without doing the bearings, repairs were easy, they made it hard to do. The trans shaft and spin tube water seals are easily damaged when installed. For the spin tube seal, I found a one-inch pipe coupling that was a perfect fit, I ground off the threads in a taper that would clear the seal lip and just fit on the rubber-covered metal base and pounded it in. For the trans shaft, I found an old shower curtain rod was a perfect fit to drive in the seal. The wife is happy with her 25 year old "new" machine, it works great. You can hardly feel anything when it spins. :-)

In reality, this turned into a full-on rebuild project - with several parts orders, not just a simple repair. But I have to give credit: The parts listings with pictures on the AppliancePartsPros web site were really useful in figuring out what was going on inside the machine, and what parts I would need. Also: The repair videos were critical for me to be able to ensure I was reassembling everything correctly. Shout out to Simon, who was featured in several of the repair videos. His "gorgeous wooden box" and his habit of setting a part aside "where the kids won't play with it" are really humorous late at night, when I'm trying to get things back together! This was a challenging repair - largely because my washer is 25 years old. But the reputation of the Whirlpool direct drive design convinced me it was worth the effort to bring it back to life. Getting the tub nut and block apart without damage is difficult on old machines.

Just like the one's I have worked on for 30 years for Whirlpool.

Originally bought an off brand clutch from another site. Not sure if it was a bad part or bad install. It started leaking water a few months later and making a scratching noise. This time I ordered original parts from appliance parts pros: clutch and shaft/tub seals. The "how to" videos were extremely helpful. Now it runs quiet and dry. P.S. I tried using channel locks to remove the tub nut but ended up having to get the proper spanner wrench.

Watched your great videos for transmission seal replacement and tub bearing replacement. We love this washer, bought in 2000, and I basically had to rebuild it. All new springs, skid plate sliders, changed the oil in gearcase, put in new agitator dogs, and a motor drive bushing. But I could not get the old bearings hammered out of the tub centerpost. I pulled out the inner tub and outer tub, pressure washed the old soap stains and grease out. Had a sledge hammer and penetrating oil. Finally damaged the tub center post, and ordered a new one. The 20-year old bearings would not budge before the welds broke under the hammer. APP had a new one to me the next day. My advice, don’t try to push out the bearings. The new post comes with all the new bearings already pressed into place, the top gasket comes too, in a separate baggy, but their sales team did not know this, I was told that I needed to buy the bearings with the center post. But they take returns up to a year later. No big deal. Now the machine is running, not leaking and our laundry is cleaner. But it took a week, working 3-4 hours a day including the pressure washing and trying to pound out the old bearings.