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Customer Questions and Answers for Turbidity Sensor (Aqua Sensor Assembly) by Bosch

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Bosch
Part Number: OEM8407101
Manufacturer Part Number: 00165279

This turbidity sensor detects how clear the dishwasher's wash water is so the control can adjust cycle time, rinses, and water changes. Replacing a faulty sensor helps restore proper cleaning performance and normal cycle lengths.

  • Monitors soil level/clarity of the wash water
  • Signals the control to extend or shorten wash and rinse phases as needed
  • Helps optimize water use while maintaining cleaning results
  • Failure symptoms can include unusually long or short cycles, poor cleaning, repeated draining/refilling, or cycles that won't advance
What's included: 1 turbidity sensor assembly Install notes:
  • Disconnect power and turn off the water supply before servicing
  • Pull the dishwasher out as needed; access the sensor from the base area
  • Place a towel to catch residual water; release the locking tab or twist-lock, unplug the connector, and install the new sensor fully seated and locked
  • Restore power/water and run a test cycle; check for leaks

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Questions & Answers

For Bosch Turbidity Sensor (Aqua Sensor Assembly) (Part Number: OEM8407101)

Cheap In Chitown for Model Number Bosch dishwasher SHX33M05UC/50

My dishwasher is 10+ years old.  It cycles, splashes water, dispenses detergent, and drains just fine.  The problem is that it does not heat properly, so dishes don't get clean.  I cranked up the temp on the water heater and ran it good and hot (so hot it was uncomfortable) at the sink next to the DW before starting the DW -- after filling, the water was barely room temp.  I let the cycle continue and checked the temp several times throughout: it was gettting marginally warmer, but never warmer than lukewarm-ish (below body temp).  I know I could replace the whole heating+pump assembly, but that's on the expensive side (+$200), and I'd rather not waste the money if that's not the problem. So how do I TEST other/cheaper components involved in heating to make sure they're working?  In particular, I'm thinking of these parts: Thermistor #00165281; Turbidity Sensor #00165279; Float Switch #00165256.  Anything else I should be looking at (and how do I test it)?  If those are all good: How do I test the heating pump to make sure it's actually the problem (vs, say, the control board)?  Appreciate any help you can give me!  p.s. Yes, I have a decent multimeter.

1 Answer

Cheap In Chitown, You will want to check the temperature sensor on the unit as it could have failed and would cause the heater to not work. The part number is 00165281. Also, check to make sure that there is 120 vac getting to the heater during the cydle.

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1 Answer

Elizabeth, With the circulation pump having been replaced, check the wiring between the pump and the control board. If the wiring is good then the control board will be the issue.

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Orion for Model Number SHE55R55UC/64

Initially while running DW my ten year old Bosch DW in Auto mode, it would progress thru the cycle until cycle countdown read 1 and essentially hold at 1. When I opened the door there was water remaining in the bottom. I pressed the cancel/reset and the drain pump kicked on and removed all remaining water. At that point I investigated the drain pump impeller and check valve and all was well. I did a “re-boot” of the system by powering down for about 15 minutes and then powered the DW back on. After that I did several test runs in both the Auto and Normal modes and all was working. Fast forward to today, about five days since the re-boot and again while running in the Auto mode, the DW failed to properly rinse and drain. I did the cancel/reset and once again drain pumped kicked on and removed the water. I have no visible error codes or anything more to go on. Might it be the turbidity sensor, or control board, or something else. Looking for ideas on what direction to point.

1 Answer

Orion, With this being an intermittent issue, the control board will be the most likely cause for this to occur.

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Jeffrey for Model Number shxn8u55uc/07

Our house took a close lightning strike which disabled the dishwasher. I tried a quick fix of replacing the power supply board. Initially when turning power back on to the unit, it appeared like it was going to be a good fix. After approx 5-10 seconds, the display flashed code E06. I powered down the dishwasher at the breaker panel, double checked all connections and re-supplied power with the same results. After a few minutes, the display went blank again. Could the turbidity sensor have caused this? Or should I look elsewhere like the control module?. As it is now, I believe the new power supply has been damaged again.

1 Answer

Jeffrey, With the unit taking a close proximity lightening strike it would most likely be the main control board that is faulty that would need to replace.

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Tim for Model Number SHU66C02 UC/14 (FD 8211-)

Hello. Thank you for your help in diagnosing this problem: Symptoms: Dishwasher starts well (initial drain, water fill, circulation pump comes on). Generally, if I don't interrupt the cycle (to add more dishes, for example), the dishwasher will run through its full cycle just fine. On two occasions now, after I interrupted the cycle, the dishwasher upon being restarted would immediately restart the circulation pump but also immediately drain until all the water was gone. The drain pump would stop but the circulation pump would continue. The water would not refill. After a couple minutes, I would cancel the cycle and it would drop to zero but the circulation pump would still continue. The only way I could get the circulation pump to turn off was by turning off the dishwasher. If I then restarted the dishwasher, the circulation pump would immediately come on but the water would not fill. The first time this happened a few weeks ago, I tore the dishwasher apart to the point of inspecting the float tube; it seemed to be fine and the float switches were "clicking" reasonably well. After I assembled the dishwasher and tested it, it worked just fine. The second time which just happened yesterday, I let the dishwasher sit for about 14 hours and just restarted it, and it started up just fine. It's currently running through its cycle seemingly just fine. Question: What could be causing this problem? I'm thinking it's either a bad float switch (not sure why the circulation pump continues to run after being cancelled), a bad turbidity sensor (why doesn't it fill after being restarted), or a bad control board. Your thoughts? Thank you for your help.

1 Answer

Tim, if the turbidity sensor is clean and the pressure chamber 00499500 is clean, the most likely failure is going to be the power control module 00431430 as the drain pump should not turn on when restarting the wash cycle unless it is in a portion of the cycle to drain water and then refill it.

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1 Answer

Michael, The turbidity sensor would typically not cause a unit to not refill with water but could cause a dishwasher to continue to run filling and draining till it sense clean water. If the water that fills up is not draining and then the refilling with clean water then it sounds likely that the control board may be faulty or if it is draining but not refilling the float switch may be sticking.

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1 Answer

Matt, The turbidity sensor could cause this issue if the temperature sensor inside the turbidity sensor were to fail.

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1 Answer

Kamal, with the power supply to the dishwasher off, the base 00689332 of the dishwasher would need to be removed, or at least lifted enough to access the turbidity sensor 00611323.

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1 Answer

Kevin, You will want to check to make sure that the filter is not clogged up and if the filter is good then the circulation pump would be causing it to not pump the water and would need to make sure that there is the power to the circulation pump.

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