Whirlpool Wall Oven Switch

• Won't start
• Element will not heat

The fix was to replace the infinite control switch on my Whirlpool range. A simple task. Read more

Watched the attached video, then followed directions and installed the part ordered. Read more

• Element will not heat

Replaced the burner Infinite switches for the burners having the issue. Here are the latest part numbers for this model Maytag. Left rear (LR) and right rear (RR) burners are both 6" and use the same switch. Part # WP3149404. Left front (LF) is an 11 1/2" burner Part# W10167742. The right front (RF) burner is a double burner 6" center and 9 1/2" outside burner Part #WPW10149355. Very simple repair. Unplug the stove, remove the rear panel, remove the switch knob, remove the 2 switch screws,... Read more

• Will not drain
• Pumps but will not spin
• Timer will not advance
• Doesn't shut off

The lid shut-off switch is located behind the lid How About That. I order the plastic ball the hold the lid in place plus the lid shut off switch. I watched the video that AppliancePartsPros.com has on how to replace the lid and the plastic balls. I removed the lid to get to the two philips head screws to remove that part of the shut-off switch. I took the new switch out of the package and compared it to the old switch. I assembled the switch just like the old switch look using the new... Read more

I first diagnosed the problem by replacing the burner control (Infinite switch) with one from a smaller burner (one that I knew worked fine). That seemed to solve the problem. I ordered the correct control for the big burner on Saturday night, it arrived Tuesday and installed it in less than 10 minutes using only a Phillips screwdriver. Remember to unplug the stove before performing any service. Take this time to clean around and under the stove. (You know it needs it!) Read more

I replaced all 3 remaining burner controls because they were all original (mid 1970s GE electric range w/coil burners), and one of the controls occasionally made arcing sounds when cycling the burner on and off. If a control is making odd noises - more than just a quiet metallic clicking as it cycles - it should be replaced. I'm assuming you have experience with the tools needed and can do simple mechanical assembly or disassembly, but have not previously worked with electrical equipment of... Read more

• Element will not heat

1. Went online where I watched video about heat control for this Maytag. I then found AppliancePartsPros using Google. I ordered the part and In three days the part arrived. I installed the part and now the problem has been corrected. Read more

Replaced the switches. Read more

I'm a 56 year old divorced woman. I started doing these kinds of repairs to save some money and honestly, to see if I could. So yes, if I can do it, it's not that tough to do. My microwave is built in above the stove - getting it down and back up was the hardest part of the job. An extra pair of strong hands really helps-for anybody, not just a 56 year old woman. The actual repair was pretty easy. Most likely problem was pretty obvious after a little research. Easy to take off cover, get... Read more

Checked the three door switches; used ohm meter to see if there was resistance or if a switch was bad. 2 out of 3 switches showed resistance with the ohm meter. The last one tested (of course the last one) NO (normally open) did not show resistance; I.e. the ohm meter reading did not change when the switch was depressed. Appliance parts pros was the only company that had the same model number I was looking for (SZW-V16-FD-63). I ordered the relay switch, 2 days later it arrived (regular... Read more

I ordered the correct part from AppliancePartsPros.com. When I received it, I opened the package and identified the parts I would need for my application. I cleaned up around my work space, then turned the power off to the appliance. I removed all the burners to get to the mounting screws for the range top. I then lifted the range top and supported it so I could see what I was working on . I first inspected all the wiring for breaks, or fraying. Then I moved on to the switch. Two screws... Read more

I was able to clean the Oven Temp Sensor with 99% alcohol. Then replaced All switches (after breaker was isolated). Put it all back the way I found it. Turned on breaker. Tested all functions and had no reports of Fan Code re-appearing since. Read more

Checked the three door switches; used ohm meter to see if there was resistance or if a switch was bad. 2 out of 3 switches showed resistance with the ohm meter. The last one tested (of course the last one) NO (normally open) did not show resistance; I.e. the ohm meter reading did not change when the switch was depressed. Appliance parts pros was the only company that had the same model number I was looking for (SZW-V16-FD-63). I ordered the relay switch, 2 days later it arrived (regular... Read more

I used your chat and found out the year my stove was made. He also told me what part to order as one of the burners had stopped heating up. We watched the video on how to install it. My friend installed it and my stove burner now works. Read more

Replaced the stove switch. Read more

Had to replace the switch for the left rear burner on a Whirlpool cooktop Model W5CE3625AB00. I turned off the circuit breaker for the cooktop and lifted it out of the countertop. It was simply held down by its own weight. There were approximately a dozen screws holding the smooth surface down onto the rest of the unit. I removed those screws, which allowed the cooking surface to lift back on a hinge in the back of the unit. Two of those screws were stripped, but I was able to remove them... Read more